Mr. and Mrs. Teoloprukunin paint black lines on our faces with ash to emulate tattoos before we take a group photo with Montro. It's time to say our good-byes. Sarimani heads back to Rogdog first.

Virginia, her 'son' Montro, and her 'great grandson' are next. They leave after many hugs, aleikus and maikaimais (goodbye). She nimbly descends the toothpick and sits in the middle of the canoe. Montro pushes off and I watch the back of her little head until she disappears around the river bend.

More pictures: